the Road Home

March 6
Well, as it turns out I was acquiring the skill of chill…in the warmth of Belizean sun both on the beach and in our Placencia hood. Patty got an A+.Sunrise on Placencia

But as expected we had to take flight…by bus with our bikes to Belmopan and the ride the remaining 35 miles back to the wonderful Savanna Guest house.
Richard and Carol greeted us with more of their vibrant warm hospitality.

Richard and Carol Foster
Another overnight in this Savanna oasis amidst the polished mahogany, gorgeous flowers, night sounds of the Savanna and engaging conversations with our hosts.

  our lodgings in Placencia …great value and a lovely setting…thanks Deb and Dave

 abundant fresh fish   Placencia beaches  Caught it…ate it too. friends off to school…different schools judging by dress.

This was a most fitting farewell to Belize, one that inspires a return to this beautifully complicated land and culture. I say complicated only because of what appears so relaxed and simple is actually, to my information, a melting pot of historic and cultural influences, the usual political contradictions, a vibrant natural history and a mixed awareness and opinion of the vulnerability of Belize. One can only hope that in this modern time of opportunism at every turn, Belizeans can steer their own future in the direction of progress based on conservation, integrity, and resource management. With a population of under 400k and a relatively young tourism investment, I’m hoping they have that window of time and commitment.

Nila and Jose artists working their way by motorcycle Argentina to Alaska

For those interested in visiting Belize, I have listed places and persons we recommend based on our experiences only.

 Our favourite coffee shop on the beach from these lovely folks. So many small independent businesses and fast food/coffee chains.

As for Belize being a tour cycling destination I have mixed feelings. Riding the open highways was safe enough provided you travel the earliest and coolest part of the day…from 6 am till 10am. Thanks to a vibrant road cycling club in Belize, awareness of cyclists was good and we got many waves and friendly honks.
Pavement edges were usually fractured with unpredictable shoulders made easier by our larger than normal 1.5 touring tires.
The Western highway linking Belize city and San Ignacio has little reprieve from the intense sun, while the Hummingbird hwy twisted and rolled thru the mountains offering shade and interest at every turn.

 view from the Hummingbird Hwy thru the mtns…the best part of cycling Belize
While we did not cycle much of the Southern hwy due to my knee injury, it did seem interesting as it gently rolled and meandered south to Placencia.
We never did get to ride south to Punta Gorda into some wilder country.
Certainly there is much more to see and do in Belize than fit our schedule and I would suggest do it, but perhaps by other means than bicycle touring.
Perhaps one day the rich natural life can be explored and appreciated from the saddle of a mountain bike as by canoe or kayak. To date there is little to no mountain biking in Belize. Perhaps that will change.

 Iguanas share the trees with so many birds

So now from thousands of feet above this blue green paradise, we say goodbye and ready ourselves for the cold embrace of our lingering winter.
Till next time Belize. Thanks for your generous warmth and hospitality.

 

http://www.belizesavannaguesthouse.com/   Richard and Carol Foster

https://www.facebook.com/pages/Deb-Daves-Last-Resort-Placencia/132794616776212

http://www.mayaguide.bz/   Marcos Cucals jungle camp near Blue Hole

http://www.belizestudyabroad.net/  Monkey Bay with Matthew and Marga

 

Life in Placencia

Feb 25.

One of the toughest activities for a cyclist..not riding. We arrived here at Deb & Dave’s guest house on the 22 in the back of a pickup truck, perhaps a low point of cycling but we did see and smell the same countryside only faster.

 

This place is a quiet enclosed garden retreat right in the center of the village of Placencia. Birds overhead, the ocean licking at the sandy shore and the hum of a little tourist village awakening to another warm day.

As I usually awake at 5:00 am, and enjoy my first coffee in the unfolding light, this has become my favorite time here. The warmth of morning air after a short spit of rain in the night is absolutely the most peaceful life can be.

While Placencia is in every way a tourist village now, it is still a calm and relaxing atmosphere with limited traffic, most people on foot, very limited drunken outbursts, friendly greetings esp. from other travelers  enjoying the same.

At the end of this 15mi peninsula, Placencia attempts to maintain its culture and integrity amidst growing pressure of foreign interests in home and resort development and cruise ship lines wanting to develop ports. North out the village are massive shorefront developments by private and speculator interests. Yes they do provide needed work opportunity here in their construction and maintenance etc and there is Belizian legislation attempting to avoid the country being a tax shelter.

But with a minimum wage of $3.50 Belize($1.75usd) and cost of living similar to Ontario, Canada, I question how people manage even with relatively good jobs. And of course Belizians ask the same in the midst of obvious disparity.

Our host and native to Placencia, Dave, is an experienced guide, now teaching consultant and past president of the Belize Tourist Assoc. He has experienced the changes and graciously shares some of his insights and predictions for this unique and

still  beautiful place.

So we will chill in all of this for a week or so. I have met a fitness trainer and  therapist here who will access the state of my knee..be it a sprain, meniscus tear, ligament injury, old age or just an excuse to laze in the sunny shade and suck on the local Belikin beer.

Feb 27.

Good news. It seems my knee issue is related mostly to a tight IT band and a tight piriformis…both typical of cyclists.  Tony of Belize Fit accessed me, unwound my IT and gave me a series of exercises that will be part of my daily routine. This was certainly a lesson on what can happen and how I can deal with it.

So now it’s kick back, relax, swim, and enjoy this place. I’ve managed to make myself a hand line rig that I may fish off the wharf and in the surf for snapper and grouper. Patty gets browner daily as she spends much of the day in the water. She chills easily. I am a student of chilling and getting better daily.